DIY Triathlon Training Plan To Get You Started

I love the look of distressed denim jackets and jeans but some of them come with a pretty high price tag so I did a little research and figured out how to get the look I wanted on a little-used jean jacket I already had. First, I needed to do a little prep work and get the supplies together. The whole proces made made me start to consider whether the DIY  trend could be applied to triathon training:  if we collect the tools we need, can we put together our own program?

For initial supplies, instead of a jacket, scissors, razors and sandpaper, I've set up an Excel template.  I figure the simplest things sometimes work best.  Let's get started!

Step 1 - 'Gather Your Supplies' = Outline Your 'Normal' Week

This lays the foundation for your triathlon training plan and this first step is simple.  All you have to do is to make a quick speadsheet showing the blocks of the time available for training.  I broke it the daily blocks into AM, Midday (some people train on a lunch hour?) and PM.  This one's pretty simple:

Step 2 - 'Assess Your Project' = Mark The Workouts You're Already Committed To

If you already have some fitness commitments (group workouts, personal trainer, swim class) mark them in.  Here's what mine looks like:

Step 3 - 'Mark The Areas To Work' = Add in the rest of the workouts you need to fill out your program.

So, here is where you will have to make some decisions.  On my jacket, I started to picture where I wanted to cut, shave & fray.  Luckily, unlike when I start working on my jacket with scissors, razors and sandpaper, anything you do here can be changed.  For a training, program, I'm going to fill it out with the other workouts I plan to do weekly.  I'll show you what  my schedule looks like but yours can be as different as it needs to be. First, though, we need a few guidelines I used:

1. I want to have least 2 workouts of each discipline - swim bike run - each week.  
2. I know I'll have 3 or 4 workouts of some disciplines (bike & run).  Go ahead and add in the extra sessions you plan to do where you think they will fit.  If you have performance goals, you will include some key types of  workouts (intervals, hills, recovery, long aerobic) so make some room for a few extra sessions. For now, just add some extra sessions to the schedule and keep it realistic in terms of your time commitments.  Try to include work in up to 3 workouts of just one or two disciplines.  
3. If you have a weakness - swim, bike or run - consider adding the additional workouts in that area, not just in the stuff you like the best or are most comfortable with.

Here is what my schedule looks like at this point.  

And just like my jean jacket, it's not perfect but then I don't need it to be. It's a starting point and, unlike my jean jacket, things can be added, deleted or changed.  You could stop here, work with this schedule and just put in the time. Just having a plan, sticking to the plan and putting in the time will get you through a race or two or three.

Step 4 - 'Assess Your Work' = Figure Out How To Take It To the Next Level.

On my jacket, I tried it on and did an overall assessment:  what did I like, what needed more work?  On my training program, I know that I like to push myself and I want to sharpen my fitness so I can push it on race day or any other day.  In that case, I need to includes some key workouts in my program:

1.  I'll need some long aerobic sessions to build endurance for the target race.
2. In order to build speed, sport-specific strength and power, I'll need to add interval sessions./
3. In order to maintain form, I should have some technique and strength work.
4. Colour coding is fun and makes it easy to get a overview of the week at a glance.

So, I want to make sure that I incorporate some of those workouts into the schedule.  Here's the plan I came up with:

The numbers in each row show me how many workouts of each type I think I need to do per week and the totals of the columns show how many workouts of each discipline I am planning.  So, I've got 2 swims, 2 gym sessions (both short, under 45 minutes), 3 bikes & 3 stand-alone runs.  The transition run is something I might do only every second or third week outside of race season.  Still, I've got 9 to 10 workouts besides gym sessions so I already know there are days I'll have to double up my workouts.  Next, I'll just add those colours to the boxes on my spreadsheet where I plan that type of session.

Step 5 - "Finesse It' = Identify Key Workout Sessions

This is where I went back to my jean jacket and gave it some more love.  On my program, I'm going to try to identify which workouts already are or are going to be those key sessions.  Again, my plan might look a little daunting so here are some points that might add some perspective:

1. I ride entirely indoors in the winter so most of the bike workouts are short and are interval based just to maximize the quality of the time spent and to keep it interesting. It looks like a lot of intensity work on the bike but that's partly just to keep the workouts engaging.
2. I do a little technique work in every bike workout so I haven't included a specific technique session for cycling.
3.  My gym sessions are short, just 30 to 45 minutes each.  If you can only make one gym session, you can still get an overall body workout in 30 to 60 minutes.  My gym is a 3 minute walk from my front door so I don't have to plan for commuting time.   
4. I've been doing triathlons a long time and one of the reasons I'm still doing it is that I do enjoy training.  I might train more than some of people and less than others.  

Here's what I end up with:

There you have it:  a basic schedule to get you started.  In the next DIY issue, we'll talk about how to set up specific workouts.  Maybe I'll even tackle another DIY project for myself.  I'm pretty handy with a sewing machine and a set of knitting needles so I'm thinking something warm for winter.

NOTE:  Please contact me if you want a copy of the spreadsheets in order to get started. They're pretty simple but if I can save you a step in getting started, let me know and I can share the Google sheet with you.

Christmas 2018 Gift Guide for Cycling and Triathlon

Here is the first edition of our Christmas Gift Guide. In this first edition, we've tried to include a few things for both cyclist and triathletes and we've included some nice technical gear and equipment as well as a few inexpensive gifts that will make great stocking stuffers.  There's a little something here for every cyclist or triathlete your gift list. Or maybe you'l find a few things to add to your own Christmas list. Here goes:

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1.       X-Lab Hydration System

When you are training, you often have to carry a few hours or  more worth of fuel with you for those long days in the saddle. When you are racing, you need to have your fuel ready when you need it. In either case, the storage solution will be some type of hydration system. X-Lab and other suppliers like Profile Design and Elite have a variety of aerobar mount systems and behind-the-saddle systems to choose from.  For a real space age looking system for your aerobars and one that will add to the overall aerodynamics of the bike’s front end, the Profile Aeria system is a great option.

2.       Aero Helmet

For the cyclist or triathlete who wants some serious aerodynamics for their next race, an aero helmet is one of the easiest ways to buy speed.  Studies confirm that aero helmets improve overall aerodynamics, anywhere from just a few watts or up to 15 watts or more.  For a more everyday use option, at aero road helmet like the Lazer Bullet or the Giro Vanquish are great gift options.  

3.       Bike Care Kit

Any pro or experience racer or bike mechanic can confirm that a clean bike will be faster so a bike care kit that includes cleaning and lubricating products is a great gift for any cyclist or triathlete.  We love the “Starter Travel Kit” from CarbonPro.  It includes wet & dry lubes, chain cleaner, Dri Shine frame cleaner and a microfiber towel, all in a handy reusable bag.

4.       Body Care

Any rider who has spent a bunch of miles in the saddle will ride happier when they use chamois cream.    There are lots of options, from thicker formulation Euro style butters, all organic formulas and specific formulations for men and women.  HooHa Ride Glide is super popular with women and the Chamois Butter brand has a variety of options, including women’s formulas and Euro style creams.

5.       Swimmer Hair and Body Care

Anyone who spends a bunch of time in a swimming pool, as triathletes and swimmers need to do, will deal with the drying effects of chlorine on their hair and skin. The TriSwim group of chlorine-removing shampoo and body wash are the best on the market. I won’t swim without finishing off with these products.

6.       Treks Titanium Bone Conduction Headphones

Most of us really love to listening to music during your long ride and run workouts but it’s not always a good idea to tune out of your surroundings. Trekz Aftershoks headphones use bone conduction to transmit sound and leave your ear open so you can hear your surroundings.   Trexz are lightweight, sweatproof and compact enough to work well with sunglasses, run hats and bike helmets.

7.       Bike Power Meter

For the rider who has just about everything but doesn’t have a power meter, this is the next “must have” for indoor and outdoor training.   Bluetooth enabled power meters like the Garmin Vector3 Pedals or a Stages Power Crank allow the rider to connect to online training platforms like Zwift and TrainerRoad and can help keep you in the zone for all of your outdoor riding when spring and summer roll around.

8.       Gear Bag

Triathletes will, by the very nature of the sport, end up with a lot of gear and they’ll need a way to carry it around and cart it from race to race. We love the flexibility and versatility of triathlon bags that have lots of organizing pockets and sections.  We know that there are tons of triathletes that show up at races with big Rubbermaid buckets but nothing says “newbie” louder than that.  Plus, the excess bulk in transition isn’t something most race directors plan for or are too keen on.  There’s nothing that works better than a well designed triathlon bag.

9.       Ryders Fyre Lens Sunglasses

Eyecare is important one the run and the ride.  I never ride without them and I’ll even run with them in the dark in the winter, just to provide protection from wind and cold.  Ryders has two new features that we love.  One is the invert frame style - rimless on the top with a rigid frame on the bottom half. While they might look odd, they allow for improved ventilation and dissipation of heat and moisture while at the same time allowing from less restriction of vision up the road while still providing structural rigidity.  And the new Fyre lens provides better differentiation as they darken so variations in terrain aren’t hidden.

10.   Smart Bike Computer like the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt, Cateye Padrone Smart or Garmin

These new bike computers are all Bluetooth compatible and will often sync with multiple add-ons (heart-race straps, cadence pods, power meters) in order to provide a variety of training data. 

Picture Gallery For This Gift Guide

Garmin Vector 3 Power Pedals

Trekz Titanium Bond Conduction Headphones

Profile Aeria Front Mount Aero Bottle

 Giro Vanquish Aero Road Helmet

Lazet Bullet Aero Road Helmet

XLab Delta Rear Mount Bottle Mount and XLab Torpedo Front Aero Bottle

Elite Skekane Rear Mount Hydration System

You can find all of these at Elementsport, in Edmonton on online.  

Triathlon As A Lifestyle Sport - Why I Have No Off Season

And now for something completely different from me.  In most of our blog posts, we talk about topical product or training issues that come from questions customers and friends have been asking, either of us directly, or on social media.  This post does have a similar source:   someone replied to a comment I made about how I felt after a hard run workout. They said: "so you're still training."  My first thought was "Well, yeah, of course".   But the brief interaction reminded me that we're not all the same, we don't all train the same way, and I've never rarely followed the same path as most of my family, that I found most of my training family in triathlon.   But the sport of triathlon has changed:  it has become more mainstream and more accessible. At the same time, it has also become more technically evolved (in terms of training, gear, resources, media, everything and it's all good).  There are still those super-focused performance oriented athletes who live, breathe, eat and sleep for this sport.  I used to be one of those people and most of my friends were the same.  Now, there are also the everyday and weekend warrior athlete who just jump in and race and train as if it were a pretty normal thing to do.  As often as not, they are doing it to stay in shape, perhaps to raise money or awareness for a cause, or maybe they just to it to have fun.  Everyone has a reason and there are as many reasons as there are participants.  I realized then that not all observers of triathlon or even participants view the sport the way I've come to embrace it. 

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Theoretically, populations of participants in triathlon can be broken down into two groups (and I know this is a bit of an oversimplification):

1.  The performance focused triathlete who is performance oriented and dedicates time, energy and every other resource they can spare into getting results.  This group trains to compete.

2.  The athlete looking for a personal challenge and is more focused on the process and sense of accomplishment than finishing placement. This group trains to complete an event.

 
I started in the first segment because, back then, there was no other way. That was why we were there.  Maybe I'm starting to move into the second group and I'm not sure how or when happened, nor do I worry about it so much.

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When I started training for triathlon back in 1993, we really didn't know what we were doing. We didn't have a coach other than a swim coach and we certainly didn't have a triathlon coach. Back then, there really weren't many tri specific coaches and, if you could find one, they were probably learning along the way just like we were. Basically, we just swam and biked and ran. We worked hard, we had some fun and we raced as often as we could find somewhere to race.  Triathlon became part of our lifestyle.  It was what we did with our spare time, it was our social scene, it was literally our lifestyle.   Many of the friends we trained and raced with back then have left the sport, some of left and come back and we've certainly met and made tons of new friends along the way. But, for me and I'm sure I'm not alone, triathlon still guides my fitness.  I don't train as intensely and purposefully as I used to but I still do it monthly, weekly and nearly daily.  So, of course I'm always coming home from or heading out to a some workout. It's not just a race season thing for me, it's an everyday lifestyle thing.  It's what I do for no other reason than it just my habit, my lifestyle.

I started triathlon as challenge, to see what I could do and I quickly morphed into that triathlete who was there to be competitive, whatever that meant. For me, it was a run for the podium or a Kona spot.  Sometimes I succeeded but, more often than not, I fell short of my "win" for that race but the successes were enough to keep me motivated for years.  When I was in what I now see as my "best days", I actually worried about how I would feel as I slowed down.  And I did slow down.  Work took over more of my time and my race schedule thinned out but I still kept training, albeit at a reduced volume.  As it turns out, I still love training and I still keep pretty fit:  I worried for nothing.  I still swim and bike and run.  The training base that has evolved as become habit and lifestyle. It might not make me 'race-fit' but I could muddle through a standard distance or half Iron-distance triathlon just about any time. (It wouldn't be pretty!)  I came to realize that, for me, there is no off-season.  I'm either in the everyday base season or it's race prep season.  There is no off-season.  But that's just me.  You find you.  You are your own sample size of one.

Triathlon Clothing - What's It Made Of, What Goes Into It, What's Important

Triathlon Clothing Part 1:  The Five F's Of Triathlon Clothing

It's easier when you break it down!
 

Fabric, Features & Functionality, Fit & Feel and Fashion (how it looks matters to a lot of us):  it doesn't have to be difficult!

 

Ok, so doing a little research won't hurt so you might as well start here.  Work through your needs adn priorities in each of these categories and you'll be able to find the gear that best suits you.

Fabric

Lycra is the name of the game in the world of cycling & triathlon clothing but what many don't consider is that not all lycra is created the same.  Fibre thickness and density and knit tension will all affect the elasticity and opacity of the fabric.  More elastic material will have more stretch and the level of expansion will be greater when the garment is wet.  You want a fabric that will stretch enough to allow full range of movement but not so much that the overall garment no longer fits snugly.  Two key indicators of the quality of the fabric are the fibre content and the fabric weight.  Look for Lycra or Spandex or the generic name for those fibers, elastane, contents of 14% or more. Fabric weight is expressed in "gsm" or "grams per square meters".  Unfortunately, this isn't always quoted on garments but you can do your own test of the garment for opacity when stretched.  It's not a perfect substitute test but it will tell you what you need to know.  Hold the fabric firmly in your hand and stretch it around your fist or your wrist. If you can see  all the details on any rings on your fingers or if you can read your watch, the fabric might be thinner than you want.  On the other hand, slight transparency in some areas 

Features & Functionality

Features are things like pockets, waistbands, pad and leg banding that vary for each garment and differentiate them from each other.  Identify what you need each of your shorts and tops to do for you based on the features.   

Pockets 

Whether you need pockets on your short and top and how many and how deep the pockets should be dependent on the events you're doing and your need for the event. If you need to carry a lot of your own stuff (nutrition, epi-pen, asthma inhaler, lip balm), consider the number and volume as well as the placement of the pockets. Remember that full pockets can be kind of bouncy so test them out in the change room.  

Pad

There are only a few types of pads you'll come across. The most basic are those made out of some variation of a polyester fleece. Most times, it's just one layer but sometimes you'll see two layers with one of them being smaller and just placed where you need more cushioning.  These are typically the most economical pads but you will still see them in some higher end shorts.  Fleece fabric pads are very soft to the skin and moisture wicking so a properly cut and placed pad of this type will have a low likelihood of causing undue chafing.   

The other type of pad you'll see are those made our of some type of foam covered with a soft-touch, wicking material.  Within this group, you'll find variations in terms of thickness and density of the pad.  The higher the density of the pad, the more protection it will provide when compressed (ie when you're using it).  Here, you really are going to be happiest with a higher density cushion.  A higher density foam will have provide more cushion when it is compressed and will also likely be more durable.

You will also see variations in thickness and size.  Here's where bigger isn't always better.   There was once a Canadian brand that featured a pretty beefy pad in their long distance short.  That was a lot of bulk to wear for 26.2 miles!  We've never seen anything quite that big since and no one has been looking too desperately for it.  A good example of how a thicker pad is done right is the DeSoto Riviera short which features the thickest zone at 7mm only long the center and rest of the pad is 5mm.  Generally, though, most foam pads in tri short will be 3 to 5 mm thick.

No type or shape of pad can ever 100% guarantee you won't chafe at all or never.  How the pad interacts with your saddle will have something to say on this issue and only time in the saddle will give you the definitive answer about how the two mix.

Waist Finish

You will find self fabric bands or elastic band waist finishes. For either option, you will find drawstring options -some have them, some don't.  

A self fabric band might be more comfortable but it needs to fit just right to prevent riding down (too loose) or over-tightness which can pinch and highlight or create rolls and bumps.

One thing to consider for any type of waist finish is a drawstring in the waistbands to ensure secure fit for non-wetsuit swims and for aggressive wetsuit stripping.  You don't want your shorts gaping and causing drag in a non-wetsuit swim nor do you want an aggressive wetsuits stipper to strip you of more than just your wetsuit.

Leg Band

Here's a tough one to get right and each of us will have our own preferences.  You'll find everything from elastic and silicone grippers, to self-fabric or silicone infused bands and various combinations of all of those.  The best thing you can do is try them on and see how and where they hit you in order to see if it all makes you happy. I can confirm that no one likes what is universally called the "sausage leg" effect and manufacturers and suppliers are definitely listening. The worst offender for me on this feature an elastic trim band but I've seen it work well for other women.  Bottom line:  what works for one might not work for another so there is no short cut to trying them on.  

Fit & Feel

If it doesn't fit you, you're wasting your money.  If it's too big and expands and floats around you in the water during a non-wetsuit swim, you will have lost the hydrodynamic benefits of wearing the suit. And onto the bike and run, a too big suit will  move against your skin causing chafing and bunching when the last thing you need to feel during a race is more discomfort.  And a too small kit can limit your range of movement and cause irritation. Again, uncomfortable clothing is an added distraction you don't need on race day.  

How a garment feels is a more intangible sensation and more individual preference. Whether you are looking for compression support or if you want just straight up comfort, we will all have a preference on where we want to sit on the compression scale.  And 'feel' is something you can't really discern when you're having to buy online so you'll have to either take a leap of faith and hope for the best or rely entirely on user feedback. If you are shopping in person at the store, that is the best way to make sure you get the fit and feel you are looking for.  

Fashion

This might not be your top priority but it might be to someone else.  There is no doubt that you will feel better when you are happy with what you are wearing and if you feel better, you might just swim, bike and run a little faster.  Not everyone places a high priority of how their kit looks but enough of us do that it warrants mention.  And this is a race factor you can control so you might as well put some thought into it.  So much of what happens on race day is beyond your control so with your race kit, you have the opportunity to have something working in your favour on race day.  So, pick something that makes you happy.  Or if you have a commitment to a team, club or fundraising goal, you might choose to wear something that represents your tribe, group or cause and that's great.

Financing / Pricing

Prices on triathlon clothing can vary but, for the most part, you really do get what you pay for.  Most clothing brands will have 2 or 3 or 4 price levels and the most expensive pieces will come with the most advanced technical features and fabrics.  The priorities you put on the Fit & Functionality will put you in a price range relative to the level of quality and technology you are looking for.  Look for triathlon shorts to range from $50 to $150, triathlon tops $60 to $160 and trisuits $99 to $399.  I've quoted regular pricing here in Canadian dollars.  In USD, you can sometimes scale these down and, on sale, obviously you'll be looking at lower amounts.  If you're a super common size (medium!), you might not have as many sale options but it never hurts to keep your eyes open for opportunities.

What to Wear For Your Triathlon - Race Day Apparel: Choosing Your Trisuit

That classic daily question:  what should I wear?  I ask myself that every day and it is perhaps even more important on race day.  When I go to work or run errands, go out for coffee with friends, whatever the activity, I want to wear something that will be comfortable and appropriate and the same goes for my triathlon race gear:  I want it to cover all the bases technically and be comfortable. Then, on race day, all that's left for me to do is get kitted up and then just go and get the job done.  My main goal for  my trikit is that I shouldn't have to give it another thought on race day. On race day, my goal is just on swimming, biking and running to the best of my ability on the day. 
 

Take the time before your race to find the best tri suit for your needs. Then, when race day rolls around, your suit will do it's job and all you have to think about is executing your race.

So, take the time in advance of your race to sort out the practicality of what pieces you're going to put on your body race day. Here's a simple list of the things I'm going to sort out for my race kit.

One-Piece Trisuit

When people use the word "trisuit", I immediately picture a one-piece trisuit. A few customers have used the term "onesie" and that term fits the bill.  A one-piece trisuit covers you from shoulder to thigh and typically has a zipper either front or back.  The exception to the zipper rule is a women's suit with a bathing suit style open back but those can be quite tricky to get in an out of in case you ever need a "nature break" before, during or after a race.  

Features to consider when you are looking at one-piece trisuits are:

-   Location of zippers.  

    You will come across front zip and rear zip trisuits.   Rear zip suits are required to be used in ITU events for Sprint and Standard distance events but athletes competing in events where these rules are required to be followed are normally competing as national team members and have been required to buy and wear the sanctioned national team uniform.  For overall convenience, comfort and the ability to stay cool, it has been our experience that few athletes end up choosing a rear-zip suit when given a choice. 

-    Pockets

    Most athletes like to have the ability to carry stuff during their race.  Most commonly, pockets are being used for nutrition supplies like gels and bars.  Other things that some athletes have had to or want to carry include: 

-    Asthma inhalers 

-    Epi-Pens 

-    Toilet paper (in a plastic bag) 

-    Lip balm (that's me!)

-    Salt tablets 

-    Sunscreen packets 

-    Smart phones (not permitted at all events but those rules are changing to allow them with certain restrictions.

-   Cash.  There aren't many races where you'd find the need to carry cash but if you are using your suit for a pre-race training day, a little cash can buy you coffee or dig you out of a bonk session. Been there!

-   Pad

Believe it or not, there are some trisuits that don't have any kind of pad.  But they aren't that common and certainly not something we've ever had a request for.  All the suits we have here have some kind of pad. The pad might be minimal as compared to a true bike short but it is the best compromise for the job:  it's thin and breathable enough that it will dry quickly after the swim, it will help a little on the bike (it's better than nothing) and it is minimal enough to not get in the way on the run.  

-   Sleeves

There has been an increase in the demand for and use of trisuits with sleeves.  Wind tunnel testing does show improved aerodyamics but they are still not as common as the standard sleeveless suit.  Sleeves can provide more sun protection which can be a huge advantage to some of athletes, especially for longer course events.  But sleeved suits do come with a higher price tag and some athletes feel that they can inhibit their swimming so the sleeveless suit is still the more popular choice.

-   Other features

There will be a few other differences between suits.  Only you can decide which features are most important for your overall comfort on race day.

Two-Piece TriSuit, Part 1 - Shorts!

We always tell new triathletes that the one thing that you should buy for your first triathlon is a pair of triathlon shorts.  There just isn't anything else that will perform as well.  You want one pair of shorts that will take you from the start to the finish without giving you a second thought.  A tri short will take you from swim to bike to run and through the transitions in between.  If you've opted for a 2-piece race kit over a 1 piece suit, you can sometimes compromise on the style of top but get yourself a pair of trishorts already!

Two-Piece TriSuit, Part 2 - Top

Most races will follow international competition rules and these rules require that your torso be covered in the front.  You might have a top you like that will work well enough: a tank top, a run top, a bike jersey are all styles we've seen being used at races.  If you are doing a pool swim race and are doing the swim in just your trishort, consider how difficult it can be to pull something tight on when you are wet. Try practicing it for sure to see if you it works for you.  Most tri tops will have zippers so they go on over wet skin pretty well.  And sometimes, a tri top can be used for indoor training so they can get more use.  

Race Belt

Most races require you to wear a race bit number on your back during the bike and on your front for the run.  The easiest way to do that is to attach your race bib to an elastic belt and then just spin the belt around to put the bib in the right place at the right time.  Easy peasy! 

Sunglasses

This is another piece of essential equipment for most of us.  I never train or race without them.  Look for something lightweight that will fit and remain comfortable with your bike helmet.  And look for eyewear with lenses strong enough to withstand impact. A lot of sport eyewear made with cycling in mind have flexible lenses that will flex on impact rather than shatter in order to continue to provide eye protection in the event of a fall.  

Remembrance Day - Lest We Forget - Featuring the Canadian Corps Cyclist Battalion

      

On November 11, 2018 but we pay our respects to the men and women who gave their lives in the line of duty.
 

We'd like to pay tribute to the Canadian Corps Cyclist Battalion which operated from May 1916 until November 15, 1920. Thank you for taking the time to read about this little-known group of soldiers.  

Canadian soldiers had extensively used Bicycles in world war one, for quick transport of men and supplies.  The Canadian cyclist Battalion was eventually formed to carry out Intelligence work with the Canadian Expeditionary Force.  The Canadian Corps Cyclist Battalion distinguished themselves in the 100-Day offensive which brought the end of the First World War.   October 14, 1914 the first Canadian Cyclist Company sailed for England with the 1st Canadian Division with ranks that had volunteered for the Cyclist unit from most of the battalions. 

The cyclists had a very intensive course which consisted of musketry, bombing, and bayonet fighting along side the highly specialized role of learning signalling and topography techniques, range-finding, tactics and the use of Lewis guns. In the early years of the war, at first the Corps carried out traffic control, trench guide, listening posts, battalion runners and dispatch riding duties. Because of the nature of the Corps duties it was very hard to keep track of them, so by May 1916 the various companies were reorganized into Canadian Corps Cyclist Battalions. The Cyclists spent from four to six weeks in the lines under intense fire which caused a higher casualty rate.  During the last months of the war they formed a very important link between the Infantry and Cavalry also keeping in constant touch with the retreating enemy. The cyclists duties along with reconnaissance duties, proved more dangerous than the early work they had undertaken, with many of the Cyclists dying in the line of duty.  During the last 100 days of the war, the Canadian Corps Cyclist Battalion, in addition to their reconnaissance duties, acted as battalion runners, dispatchers and scouts. They also acted as soldiers and took part in direct combat.     

In the early days of the battalion, many of the bikes the Corps used were CCM and Planets, made in Canada.  In later days of the war, the bicycle fleet was supplemented with British-made BSA's.  The Corps fought at Ypres, Vimy Ridge and Passchendaele.  It has been reported that Canadian cyclist and Corps member, Garnet Durham of Regina was the first Allied soldier to cross the Bonn Bridge into Germany after the armistice in November 1918, 100 years ago this month. 

How To Find Goggles That Fit and Don't Suck

Bad goggles can ruin a good swim workout or even prevent you from having one at all.  A good pair of goggles should fit without fuss, without too much fussing around and without too much pressure on your eye sockets and the surrounding soft tissue.   Goggles should just do their job without having to give them a second thought during your workout.   But how to find that perfect goggle?  There is no magic here, mostly just a bit of trial and error. And you'll soon find out it doesn't matter a bit what your training partner or anyone else says is the "best" goggle.  If it doesn't fit you, it will suck in all the wrong ways.  

Here are some of the features you'll find.  You decide which ones matter to you:

1.  Anti-fog  

Most goggles come from the factory with some kind of anti-fog coating but this coating is very delicate and will only last a week or two, for less than a dozen workouts typically.  After that, you need to restore the anti-fog with drops, wipes or sprays.  Wipes like "Foggies" will also clean off any other residue and won't require rinsing or drying time but the new Arena "no rinse" drops are also great.  

Having said all of that, some goggles are better than others for maintaining anti-fog qualities but keeping your goggles in a protective case has definitely proven to help.

2.  Polarization

We've seen lots of brands come out with polarized goggles aimed at the open water swimmer but, quite honestly, most of us have swam for years without polarized lenses.  Polarized lenses are great for reducing reflective glare off the water but it's only a benefit if the goggles fit and they stay fog-free.

3.  Adjustable nose bridges or different size options

Some of us have smaller faces and some of us have bigger faces. So, when my training partners swear by a pair of goggles like the Tyr Special Ops which doesn't have an adjustable nose bridge, I just have to take them at their word that these are the best goggles ever.  They will never fit me so I'll never experience the joy they claim to get from these goggles.  Size matters and adjustibility helps too.

4.  Straps

Double straps, single straps, split straps.  You might have a preference, you might not. Double and split straps when placed properly will help keep you goggles at the best angle for proper fit and security.

5.  Materials

The gaskets of most better quality goggles are made of one of 3 materials: silicone, thermoplastic rubber (TPR) or latex, the latter being the least common.  Both silicone and TPR are resistant to chemical degradation but time, water and a bunch of chemicals will eventually take their toll on them and you will probably find that they won't seal as well eventually.  

How do you fit a goggle?

At a glance:   Most of us will have an eye socket that is more ovalized vs rounded.  Look for goggles that are of a similar shape as yours eyes in the spectrum of oval-round.

Size matters:  If you have a smaller face or a smaller head, look at the smaller size or a women's fit goggle when there are options.  

You are unique:  Some of us have deep set eyes, a pronounced brow bone, pronounced nose bridge or other unique qualities that make goggle fit more of a challenge.  You will eventually learn what goggle features work for your unique issues. 

Goggles don't have to hurt or pinch. If they actually fit you properly, you don't have to have the goggles straps cinched very tightly at all.  To test goggle fit do this without using the strap:

-  For fixed nose bridge goggles, gently press goggles to your eyes and see if they will stay on with just a gentle amount of pressure. 

-  For goggles with an adjustable nose bridge, gently press one side of the goggle to your eye socket.  If that works, try the other side.   If both sides want to stay suctioned to your eye socket for a second or so, then try both together. If you can't get both sides to "stick", change the nose bridge to a smaller or larger one, depending on which way you need to go.

When you do this "suction" test, the goggles won't necessarily stay for much more than a second or two as gravity will pull them down when the strap isn't there to keep them in place.  But if they fit your eye socket nicely, the strap should hold them in place with just a little added tension. (If you find yourself constantly cinching up your goggles to keep them from not leaking, they either don't fit you or they've lost their ability to easily conform to your face shape.)

This won't guarantee 100% that the goggle that seems to fit in the store will never, ever leak, but it is going to help you eliminate a bunch of ill-fitting goggles.

What about open water swim goggles? Are they really any different?  Do you need them to swim in open water?

We're seeing more and more goggles that are marketed as open water goggles but what does that really mean?   Is there something specific you should look at for an open water goggle or is it all a bit of marketing hype?   I'll let you decide but here is what I would look for in a goggle I would choose for an open water swim:

-  Wide field of vision.  For siting, you want to lift your head as little as necessary in order to minimize throwing off your body position.  Good peripheral vision is also nice to have.  Look for a goggle with a curved lens, ideally, and one that wraps around the side of your face a little.  Mask style goggles work for some as well.

-  Tinted.  In sunny conditions, tinted goggles can be nice but sometimes, if I'm swimming in a place with lots to see like tropical fish and coral, light tint or clear lenses are nice.  

-  Polarized.  Nice to have at sunrise and sunset if you are swimming towards the sun.  

-  Anti-fog.  Good luck with this one. Your best weapon here is going to be your chosen anti-fog treatment.  Be aware that goggles will fog up more and faster in colder water so just because something fogs up in open water doesn't mean the goggles are past their prime.   

But any goggle that works for you will work in open water.  Remember that people were swimming and doing triathlon for decades before open water specific goggles were marketed.  No, you don't need open water specific goggles in order to swim in open water. What works in the pool will work in open water and vice versa.  Choose your own equipment to fit you.

OK, so how long should goggles last?  

Wow - this one all depends on the quality of the goggle, how well you treat them and how tolerant you are to foggy goggles.  Some people report getting a year or more use out of one pair of goggles but my norm is around 4 months.  Foggy goggles drive me nuts!!  Usually, it's either the failure of the anti-fog treatment or when goggles no longer conform to your face shape (due to hardening of the gasket materials due to chemical degradation) that will necessitate new goggles.  The best way to get as much life as possible out of your goggles when you find a really good pair is to do all of the following:

1.  Use a good quality anti-fog treatment.  Look for either sprays, drops or wipes.  2.  Rinse your goggles in fresh water after each use.  (I rarely do this so that might explain my need to replace them frequently.

3.  Store your goggles in a protective case between each use. Make sure the case allows for air circulation so your goggles can dry between uses.

It's really not that hard. Now go swim!!

Gallery:

Split Strap Design:

 Mask Style Design:

Double Strap Design:

OK, so how long should goggles last?  

Wow - this one all depends on the quality of the goggle, how well you treat them and how tolerant you are to foggy goggles.  Some people report getting a year or more use out of one pair of goggles but my norm is around 4 months.  Foggy goggles drive me nuts!!  Usually, it's either the failure of the anti-fog treatment or when goggles no longer conform to your face shape (due to hardening of the gasket materials due to chemical degradation) that will necessitate new goggles.  The best way to get as much life as possible out of your goggles when you find a really good pair is to do all of the following:

1.  Use a good quality anti-fog treatment.  Look for either sprays, drops or wipes.  2.  Rinse your goggles in fresh water after each use.  (I rarely do this so that might explain my need to replace them frequently.

3.  Store your goggles in a protective case between each use. Make sure the case allows for air circulation so your goggles can dry between uses.

It's really not that hard. Now go swim!!