Winter Riding - Prepare To Ride Outside In Any Weather

Even in a cold and snowy Canadian winter, riding outside is still an option.  Sometimes, you just need to get some fresh air and enjoy the outdoors.  
 

As the days get shorter and colder, riding outside becomes a bit more challenging but it's still possible.  So, let's get started.

 

 

 

Back  in May, we were watching one of the early spring classic bike races overseas back in the spring and the racers were faced with cool, rainy weather.  One of the race commentators quoted one of the racers off the front, a guy who didn't appear bothered by the cold, wet conditions:   "There is no such thing as bad weather for riding, only bad clothing choices."

 

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Fall  Riding In Three Steps 1.   Dress for it     Jacket These are the three jackets you need in your arsenal in order to be prepared to ride in just about anything.  With any of these, make sure you consider visibility and reflective details in order to be seen.     1.    Light Wind Layer           In this category, you should have a both a jacket and a vest.  Look for super light, packable pieces that you can stuff in a pocket and carry with you on those days when weather conditions might be change while you are still out there. Every run and cycling clothing brand makes one of these and we'll all need to pull them out now if we haven't already. 2.   Lightweight membrane jacket.       Look for a jacket that can stand up to actual rain. Waterproof breathable membrane jackets that keep you drier will go a long way to keeping you warmer as well.  Consider a jacket like the Garneau Commit jacket which also has a high degree of stretch.  This allows for layering as well as great freedom of movement without excess bulk. 3.   Softshell Jacket This is a heavier weight jacket with thermal protection and a water resistant coating.  Again, there are lots of players in this category.  Personally, I don't go quite this far:  if it's cold enough out there to warrant this level of protection, I'm probably riding indoors.  But most of you are tougher than me so go find yourself a winter jacket already!  If you are really serious about a jacket just for riding and not a multi-purpose piece, you can spend upwards of $400 to $500 but the Garneau Enerblock jacket be under $170 and will handle just about anything you can handle. Pants And Leggings I'd include knee-warmers and leg-warmers in this category:  basically, cover up and keep your legs insulated from cold and wet.  Look for wind resistant finishes as well as the level of thermal protection that you need.  As temperature changes, I approach this in 3 stages: Stage 1 - End of summer, beginning of fall when, I'll start by wearing knee warmers with my usual shorts or I'll switch to knicker length bike pants.   Stage 2 - When temperatures fall a little further, I'll go to a full leg-warmer.  But when temperatures fall enough that I start to fill chilly in any areas where I'm only wearing one layer of lycra, I move to stage 3. Stage 3 - Full on thermal tights.   In this stage, I usually wear regular bike shorts underneath an unpadded tight but padded full length tights are an option. Socks & Shoe Covers Again, I do this one in a few stages, starting with just adding toewarmers, then moving to full on shoe cover.  As temperatures continue to fall, I move to thermal weight full shoe covers and switch to socks with at least some merino wool.  Gloves For me, one of the most challenging things about cold weather riding is sorting out how to keep my hands warm so I approach this in a few stages as well.   Stage 1 - When temperatures are still above zero (Celsius), it's still easy.  For 10-15C, I normally just add a light liner weight glove underneath an slightly too big or stretched out pair of regular bike gloves.   Stage 2 - When temperatures fall to single digits, I'll add a heavier, light thermal weight glove. And finally, stage 3 - For full on freezing temperatures (or even anything below 5C with with some wind), I go to a full on heavy weight thermal glove with wind and weather protection.  Anything below that, it's full on lobster gloves or staying inside and riding the trainer.  I admit to being a bit of  a baby when it comes to keeping my hands warm.  I'll almost always have heavier gloves or mitts on than just about anyone I ride with.   2.   Prepare Your Bike Lights For Front & Back We are always prepared, even in the summer months, with small front and rear lights on our bikes.  The accepted protocol is to run white lights on the front, red lights on the back. In the summer months when we are riding solely in daylight hours, we'll still mount small but nicely bright little lights on our handlebars and seatpost. It's not uncommon for us to use the rear lights in the summer, especially when riding on busier roads or highways.  These lights aren't for illumination, just to make us more visible. When days get shorter, it starts to get a little darker by the time we finish our rides so we'll start switching our front lights out to something that provides a little more fire power and can add a little spotlight on the road ahead of us. For full-on fall and winter riding where we'll be riding in the dark, lighting options start to get really fun. Lighting has become less expensive, lighter weight and with more rechargeable options. It's easier than ever to put together a simple, effective and inexpensive lighting solution to meet all your riding needs. Change Your Tires If your fork accommodates wider, plumper tires, now is the time to put them on if you haven't already.  A plumper tire and one with a more aggressive tread will handle a little snow, wet and gravel.   Assess The Need For Different Lube. There are two things here to consider:  drive train lubrication and frame protection.  With changing winter conditions, you might want to have both a colder weather and wet weather drive train lubes handy so you always have what you need.   Some lubricants do a great job in a wider range of weather conditions and some of them promise to penetrate deeper and to clean and protect.  You might pay more for a good quality lube but the extra durability should pay off in harsher weather.  And if you are riding any of the Edmonton bike paths, you will have noticed the the City started spraying those roads with a solution with calcium chloride.  This solution helped keep the bikeways clear of snow but it left a wet green-tinted residue that got into the bike's drive train.  The City claims the solution includes a corrosion inhibitor but the safe option would be to try to clean your chain frequently.  The safe pre-ride option is to use a protective lubricant (like Boeshield T-9) before you ride.      And to protect your frame and all the other metal bits on your bike, keeping it clean is always the best suggestion but some protective lubricants can also be used on the frame. Again, Boeshield T-9 will provide a durable, waterproof protection layer on any metal surface, frame included.  For winter riding, it is important to show your bike some love:  clean and protect it as often as needed. 3.   Just Go Out And Ride Already It's just that easy!  It might not be fun every single ride but then we have those days in the summer where on even the nicest sunny day, we're just not feeling it.   Give winter riding a chance and you might find that the winter doesn't feel so long after all.

Triathlon Wetsuits & Swimskin 411 - Some Basics To Get You Started

Whether you plan to buy or rent, it's good to know what the product options are.
 

 

At Element, all of our staff are or were actively competing triathletes. We help you from start to finish:  size selection, how to properly put on the suit and how to care for it after you get it home.

 

Wetsuits

A triathlon wetsuit is different from a wetsuit made for other aquatic sports. This suit will fit like a second skin but is must still give your arms full range of motion for efficient swimming.  As well, many wetsuits are designed to give you buoyancy support to help your body position in the water.  In fact, a lot of triathletes count on the wetsuit for that as much as for thermal protection.  Regardless, in most open water swim triathlons in western Canada, you can count on needing a wetsuit, with lake water temperatures rarely exceeding 70F.  Brrrrrrr.

Things to look for in a triathlon wetsuit:

1.   Fit.

2.  Quality of materials.  Look for things like Yamamoto or Greengoma neoprene, YKK zippers, SCS coating, a variety of thicknesses of neoprene in different areas.

3.   Warranty    

4.   Fit, again, it is critical!  

But, all those things aside, if you don't put on your wetsuit correctly, it will not perform as well as it could and you will not be able to perform to your best potential.  Either you will find your mobility is restricted unnecessarily, or you may find water pooling in some areas of the suit when it shouldn't. And, yes, while we do sell wetsuits on our website, we highly recommend trying them on in person in-store.  Trying it on is the only way to really know if any wetsuit is the right one for you.  Come in, try on the best two suits we have in stock in your price range, and get it right the first time!  Different brands of wetsuits may be better suited to different body types, so don't be swayed by what your friends say or all the online marketing about the "fastest suit"...whether it is your coach, best buddy and training partner, or a pro athlete (especially one that gets paid to wear the suit).  The best suit will be the one that fits you the best. 

 Swimskins

The swimskin is a newer piece of equipment in triathlon, but for they've become almost required equipment in non-wetsuit swims since around 2007.  They certainly existed prior to 2007 but it was in 2007 that it became apparent that the triathlon world had fully embaced swimskins as a piece of essential equipment. 

A swimskin a smaller, thinner and non-buoyant replacement for a wetsuit that is worn over a race kit (ITU has some limitations on this general statement) when the water is too warm for a wetsuit (by USAT standards for age-groupers, 78 degrees).  A swimskin is designed to be very snug and worn only during the swim leg.  It enhances speed through the water despite lacking buoyancy by compressing the body and creating minimal friction with the passing water.  The swimskin provides a solution to maintain speed and hydrodynamics in the water while wearing a bulkier (read: not completely skin-tight) tri kit.  You should note that some races do not allow swimskins for non-wetsuit swims.  Under certain rules (ITU), whatever is worn in a non-wetsuit swim must be worn for the rest of the race.  In this case, there is often a trisuit version of the swimskin. Where a swimskin has no cycling pad, the trisuit version may have a pad and it may also have strategic inserts of more breathable fabrics for athlete comfort in hot weather racing.

Only a few races, like Ironman Hawaii, are always a non-wetsuit swim.  Here in Canada, a very popular race like the Kelowna Apple Triathlon has been declared a non-wetsuits swim a few times in recent years but it is still a rare race in this part of the world where the open water venue is warm enough that wetsuits aren't allowed.  But. the bottom line is that, if you race a lot especially in southern climates, you should consider having a swimskin for those destination races or for those just-in-case scenarios.  Before you decide to use one in a race, weigh the costs and benefits: Will the water temperature be cool enough? Is it more beneficial to wear a wetsuit?  Consider the length of the swim leg and estimate if the time gained by wearing a swimskin will outweigh the time spent removing it in transition as removing one takes at least 15 seconds.

In the end, fit and comfort are most important when picking a suit. If the swimskin fits correctly and does not restrict or impede your ability to swim, it will probably save a little time and energy. These suits are available on order only at this time. Due to very low demand, swimskins are often only available on custom order in our store, not in stock all the time.

 

Brands and Materials

For the 2018 race season, we are continuing to sell wetsuits from Zone 3, 2XU and DeSoto.  Given that there are only a handful of different materials used to make triathlon wetsuits, suits from different manufacturers are more similar than they are different.  It makes sense, then, to choose your wetsuit on how it fits you (and your budget) more than any other factor.    

And let's talk about materials a little more.  For the past 15+ years, Yamamoto has been the material most commonly used in top end triathlon suits and it has definitely delivered from a performance and durability perspective.  It stands to reason, though, as prices start to creep up on suits made from Yamamoto material, that there other comparable products would make their way to market.   De Soto switched to Greengoma a few years ago and their suits perform just as well as they always have. Greengoma is a limestone based rubber (as compared to a petroleum base used in all other materials used in triathlon wetsuits).  One of the motivations in migrating to the use of Greengoma rubber was to reduce the overall carbon footprint of the manufacturing process. 

Features and Marketing

Arms Up Design

Many brands will tout certain features as being either beneficial to your swim in some way and as being unique to their own design. The "arms up" feature is one of these. Some brands are promoting this as a new feature for 2017/2018 but it has been around for a lot longer that just the past year.  DeSoto has built their suits like this since 1999 and others have followed similar designs. If you've tried on or swam in many suits in the past 20 years, you will notice that none of them are designed to easily allow your arms to comfortably remain down and beside your torso.  

Zippers

In triathlon wetsuits, you'll see standard zippers that zip from the bottom up most commonly. However, you will also see zippers that run top down and breakaway zippers that pull apart quickly and easily with a quick tug.  Realistically, you're often undoing your suit as you exit the water and you'll be dealing with the zipper while you are on the run, the true multi-tasker that you are. While some zipper designs might help you get out of your wetsuit a few seconds faster, this might not be a feature that should be a deciding factor when buying a wetsuit.  

Graphics

Obviously, if the choice is between a plain black suit and something with a little more visual appeal and flashier graphics and colour, many of us might prefer something a little more striking.  But graphics don't make you faster. Proper fit is more important to your overall swim performance and comfort.

How To Find Goggles That Fit And Don't Suck

Goggles can ruin a good swim workout or even prevent you from having one.  A good pair of goggles should fit without fuss, without pressure and should just do their job without having to give them a second thought during your workout.   But how to find that perfect goggle?  There is no magic here, mostly just a bit of trial and error. And you'll soon find out it doesn't matter a bit what your training partner or anyone else says is the "best" goggle.  If it doesn't fit you, it will suck somehow. 

Here are some of the features you'll find.  You decide which ones matter to you:

1.  Anti-fog  
Most goggles come from the factory with some kind of anti-fog coating but this coating is very delicate and will only last a week or two, for less than a dozen workouts typically.  After that, you need to restore the anti-fog with drops, wipes or sprays.  Wipes like "Foggies" will also clean off any other residue and won't require rinsing or drying time but the new Arena "no rinse" drops are also great.  
Having said all of that, some goggles are better than others for maintaining anti-fog qualities but keeping your goggles in a protective case has definitely proven to help.

2.  Polarization
We've seen lots of brands come out with polarized goggles aimed at the open water swimmer but, quite honestly, most of us have swam for years without polarized lenses.  Polarized lenses are great for reducing reflective glare off the water but it's only a benefit if the goggles fit and they stay fog-free.

3.  Adjustable nose bridges or different size options
Some of us have smaller faces and some of us have bigger faces. So, when my training partners swear by a pair of goggles like the Tyr Special Ops which doesn't have an adjustable nose bridge, I just have to take them at their word that these are the best goggles ever.  They will never fit me so I'll never experience the joy they claim to get from these goggles.  Size matters and adjustibility helps too.

4.  Straps
Double straps, single straps, split straps.  You might have a preference, you might not. Double and split straps when placed properly will help keep you goggles at the best angle for proper fit and security.

How do you fit a goggle?

At a glance:   Most of us will have an eye socket that is more ovalized vs rounded.  Look for goggles that are of a similar shape as yours eyes in the spectrum of oval-round.

Size matters:  If you have a smaller face or a smaller head, look at the smaller size or a women's fit goggle when there are options.  

You are unique:  Some of us have deep set eyes, a pronounced brow bone, pronounced nose bridge or other unique qualities that make goggle fit more of a challenge.  You will eventually learn what goggle features work for your unique issues. 


Goggles don't have to hurt or pinch. If they actually fit you properly, you don't have to have the goggles straps cinched very tightly at all.  To test goggle fit do this without using the strap:

-  For fixed nose bridge goggles, gently press goggles to your eyes and see if they will stay on with just a gentle amount of pressure. 
-  For goggles with an adjustable nose bridge, gently press one side of the goggle to your eye socket.  If that works, try the other side.   If both sides want to stay suctioned to your eye socket for a second or so, then try both together. If you can't get both sides to "stick", change the nose bridge to a smaller or larger one, depending on which way you need to go.


This won't guarantee 100% that the goggle that seems to fit in the store will never, ever leak, but it is going to help you eliminate a bunch of ill-fitting goggles.

What about open water swim goggles?

We're seeing more and more goggles that are marketed as open water goggles but what does that really mean?   Is there something specific you should look at for an open water goggle or is it all a bit of marketing hype?   I'll let you decide but here is what I would look for in a goggle I would choose for an open water swim:

-  Wide field of vision.  For siting, you want to lift your head as little as necessary in order to minimize throwing off your body position.  Good peripheral vision is also nice to have.  Look for a goggle with a curved lens, ideally, and one that wraps around the side of your face a little.  Mask style goggles work for some as well.

-  Tinted.  In sunny conditions, tinted goggles can be nice but sometimes, if I'm swimming in a place with lots to see like tropical fish and coral, light tint or clear lenses are nice.  

-  Polarized.  Nice to have at sunrise and sunset if you are swimming towards the sun.  

-  Anti-fog.  Good luck with this one. Your best weapon here is going to be your chosen anti-fog treatment.  Be awarer that goggles will fog up more and faster in colder water so just because something fogs up in open water doesn't mean the goggles are past their prime.   


Split Strap Design:

 Mask Style Design:

Double Strap Design:

Is Saddle Discomfort Sidelining You? Things To Consider When Looking For When You Need A Different Saddle

Trouble finding the right saddle?  You're not alone! Sure, you know that first ride or two can leave you a little sore but, after a few weeks, you should be able to find a sweet spot that lets you ride in comfort. How do you find that perfect saddle?

We'd all like to find the surefire, short cut answer but if it were that easy, you probably wouldn't still be looking for answers.   Here are some of the things to consider when looking for your new happy saddle.

1.            Saddle Width - What does that mean and what part of the saddle is the measurement based on?

Yes, saddles do come in different widths. Reference to saddle width commonly refers to how wide the saddle is at its widest, near the back of the saddle. This where you will spend a lot of time if you aren't riding in the aero position or are cruising on your road bike.  Some of us find that, when we start riding aero or ramping up the intensity on our road bike, we start riding further forward on the saddle. So, the saddle width at the back of the saddle, while important when we're sitting back, doesn't address all of our potential issues.  So, another critical consideration is the width of the saddle at the front.  Take a look at a few different saddles and you'll notice that they're not all the same width at the front either.   

Another thing worth noting here that there are some “saddle fit systems” (or are they really marketing materials or gimmicks?), out there that have you sit on something that measures the width of yours sit bones.  But, from the section and video above, you’ve probably realized that these tools won’t give you all the answers.  Since you are moving forward on the saddle and pressure is off your sit bones and has moved elsewhere, those kind of measurement tools are only going to suggest the correct saddle almost accidentally.      

2.            Riding in the Aero Position may require a different saddle.

Riding in the aero position like you would on a triathlon bikes will shift more of your weight to the front of the saddle.  As well, the angle of you pelvis relative to the saddle and where the saddle is supporting most of your body weight will be completely different. the saddle will be different.  The Adamo saddle is  a good example of this. The Adamo is now the #1 saddle in the Ironman Hawaii saddle count yet it is not even close to getting that level of acceptance in road cycling.  This might be in part due to triathlete's being early adopters but it could also be that the benefits of a twin rail saddle like an Adamo are  more keenly noticed in the aero position.  

3.            How does the saddle transition from the widest to the narrowest point?  Is it a short transition?  Is the transition straight or curved?

The shape of the side of the saddle can be relatively straight or curvier.  Take a look at how the saddles goes from side to narrow:  is it a relatively straight line like the Fizik Arione or is it a noticeable curve, more like the Selle Italia SLR?  How sharply the saddle transitions from wide to narrow is important.  A narrower saddle point won't put pressure on the inside thighs of a person with narrower hips.  A wider saddle point will provide more support for someone with wider hips.  Another factor in saddle shape is how much you move back and forward on the saddle.  If you use most of the saddle at different times during your riding, a saddle that is relatively uniform shape from front to back is better and this shape should be on the narrow end. 

4.            The slope of the top of the saddle from front to back.

A saddle can be relatively flat with little curve from front to back or back to front. The Fizik Arione is a good example of this.  Other saddles have a slight upward curve at the back.  The Selle Italia SLK is like this.  Then, there is Profile TriStryke Saddle which curves slightly but distinctly upward at the tip.  This saddle is also slightly wider at the front that many.  To make up for more bulk at the front or nose of the saddle, the Profile , you'll notice it has significantly more cushioning than others. Then, there are saddles that have a distinct upward curve at the back.  This can be useful if you are climbing a lot and want something to anchor your weight against when you are climbing and sitting more towards the back of the saddle.  Then there is the distinct drop off of the front part of the saddle like the SMP series. These might not work well for riding in the aero position but they can work well when you spend most of your time in the saddle with your weight centered on the saddle. 

5.            The shape of the saddle from side to side when viewed from the back.

Some saddles are relatively flat from side to side.  Others are distinctly curved.  If you are spending a lot of time in the aero position, also take note of the shape of the nose of the saddle from side to side.

6.            Saddle cutouts

Some saddles have cutout sections for relief of body weight and the shape and width of the cutouts vary a lot.  An extreme example of a cutout is the SMP saddle which has a cutout the entire length of the nose of the saddle.  For triathlon, a cutout can be helpful in allowing your tri short to dry quicker which can help prevent chafing and saddle sores.   For general riding, a cutout can serve to remove potential pressure points from the saddle while still providing structural support for your body weight by the saddle rails and the cushioning on them.

Hopefully this will help you consider what things about your current saddle aren't making you happy and what things to look for in your new one.  Saddle selection can end up being a little trial and error but hopefully something you've read here will fast track your search.  And just to illustrate some of the points above, here are a few images. This first one shows four very different saddle shapes. I know from experience that only one of these saddles is a candidate for me.  Do you know if one of saddles might work for you?  If so, which one(s)?

And this second image shoes the side view of two saddles with different slope profiles.  Again, I will ride a saddle like the first one on my road bike but I can ride saddle with the profile of the second saddle on a triathlon bike.  Your results may differ but hopefully a something here has helped you find your happy place.

Overwhelmed & Underprepared As Your Big Race Approaches

Once triathlon race season arrives, we talk to athletes every day who are just weeks or days out from their big goal race and their varied levels of excitement and anxiety are truly cool to hear about.  It might be over a decade since my first triathlon races but I can still remember all of those same feelings.  Here are some of the things I wish I'd been told or that I wish I'd truly understood and taken to heart when I was in that spot where I felt totally overwhelmed and unprepared.

1.  Strategies to deal with race week nerves

- Do normal things

- Do distracting things.  But be smart about this one. For me, it would be something like burying myself in a page-turner of a book or watching an action-adventure or gut-busting comedy movie.  

-  Follow your usual race-week routine. If you've done some short course racing but this is your first distance or ultra-distance race, just follow your usual routine.  Trust that it's worked for you before and it will work for you now.

2.  Avoid disaster

You've come to the final days of the race fit and ready to race.  All you need to do it get to the start line healthy and injury free.  Not as easy as it might sound!!  Accidents leading to injury, sickness (flu, colds, chest infection), food poisoning, other ailments can all crop up race week to derail your plans.  There mght be no way to be 100% certain or safe but here are some things that would have prevented me and some of my friends from an eventual DNF or DNS

-  Prepare your own food.  
You are less likely to get food poisoning if you are in control of your food preparation.  And if you are preparing all of your usual foods, you are less likely to throw your system for a loop.  In case you're wondering, yes, I have gotten food poisoning just days before an Ironman.  I managed but it wasn't my best performance and it was more painful than it needed to be.

-  Avoid the prerace swim if the swim venue is generally sketchy or if recent rains have caused conditions to deteriorate.  And yes, I have picked up a bug from a pre-race swim in conditions that turned out to be less than optimal.  My race plans were derailed when I started feeling nauseous just 12 hours before the race and spending the night vomiting.  While I started the race, there was no way I could finish it;  I just couldn't eat or drink anything.

-  Be careful!   I'm sure we all know someone or have heard of someone who had a bike spill or a sprained ankle or other such ailment that prevented them from starting their race.  This one hasn't happened to me.  Yet.  But you can never bee too careful.

3.  Stick to your plan and don't over-train this week.

Your taper allows you to recover from all your long and hard training time and it allows you to replenish all your reserves, both mental and physical.  You might be tempted to burn up some of that energy in a few good workouts.  Don't be afraid to do enough training to keep the joints and muscles moving but don't overdo it either.  


And try to remember to have some fun, find some joy in the whole experience and reconnect with your inner athlete.  It's all up to you and you got this!

Bike Maintenance Isn't Just For Spring - 4 Reasons To Visit The Bike Doctor More Often

A lot of you bring your bike(s) in for maintenance in the spring just as you transition from indoor training to finally hitting the road.  You'll get a regular top-to-bottom spring tune up and swap out your trainer tires for road-worthy rubber. And for some of you, that's about it. But there are lots of reasons to come and see us more often:

1.  Keep it clean!

Grit and grime in your chain and cassette will cause extra wear and will result in having to replace them earlier than a clean drivetrain.  If you aren't the sort to clean your bike regularly, and certainly after riding in rainy conditions, we're here to help.  Bring your bike in for a spa day and you bike will ride better and your parts will last longer.

2.  Check your tires

If you ride a lot, your tires can take a beating.  You check for proper tire pressure every time you ride but if you aren't sure how more miles your current tires are going to last, we can help you monitor them through the season.

3.  Bike Fit

As you start put more outside miles on your bike, your should consider whether your bike fit position is changing. As you get fitter, you might want to transition to a more aggressive position. Or if you are experiencing some aches and pains that are preventing you from riding as hard or a much as you had planned, your position should be assessed so we can get you more comfortable.  Don't suffer more than you need to!  Yes, we expect our muscles to scream at us after a hard climb or sprint, after a long ride or race but riding your bike shouldn't damage your body!  And a good bike fit doesn't need a lot of expensive equipment:  a great bike fit requires communication between the rider and the fitter and the ability to problem solve and find a solution for the cyclist.  

4.  Saddle!  

If you aren't happy with your current saddle yet, it's time to change it up.  There are tons of saddles out there and you can always find at least on review that says any one of them is the solution.  It can be mind-boggling and expensive to sort through all the marketing noise on this one.  But we've worked with literally 100's of saddles and 100's more customers so we've been able to put together a curated selection of saddles that have worked for a wide variety of saddles.  Ask us and we'll help you find your happy place sooner.  If you're not in Edmonton, reach out and ask us for some suggestions.

10 Ways to Make Your Bike Faster This Summer and/or for Your Next Race

1.  Maintain proper tire pressure.  

This is so easy yet it's so important, it's worth repeating.  And it's not an issue where more is necessarily better.  Ask Cam to set you straight on what works best for you. And your tires will last longer too. 

2.  Aero Wheels.  

But you already knew or suspected that.  Again, Cam's a wealth of knowledge on this topic.  This one is on the expensive end of the list so it warrants some careful consideration of your options.  

3.    Add aerobars.

 If you are on a road bike and a triathlon is in your future, chances are you've already considered this one. 

4.    Make sure your drive train is working at its best. 

Besides keeping it clean and properly lubed, you want to make sure it is shifting crisply and that everything is correctly adjusted.  Spontaneous or sluggish shifting or a dropped chain can be a distraction that can throw you off your game on race day.

5.    Get a new chain!  

Yes, it can make you faster and it's far less expensive that an new wheelset.  One industry reference suggests that a properly lubed, fresh new chain can save you about 10 watts.  

6.    Clean up your front end.

Check your bar tape and clean up any loose ends on the front of your bike to reduce the chance of any excess "dirty air".  Anything flapping around in the wind is costing you both time and watts and it's an easy thing to fix.  You don't necessarily need to replace anything but make sure any loose ends are taped up and your bar end plugs are in place to make sure nothing unravels on you.

7.    Streamline your position. 

Can you get more aero (and thus, faster)?  Getting your body lower in front will help you cheat the wind.  Lowering your front end or adding aerobars are topics you might consider discussing over a bike fit assessment.

8.    Lose weight.  

And, no, we're not suggesting going on a crash diet yourself ('cause you're just fine the way you are) but consider all the accessories you've added to your bike. Do you need them all on race day?  Pare down what you can.  If you can refuel along a race course, whether it is a Fondo ride or a triathlon, you don't have to carry 3 or 4 full drink bottles on your bike.

9.    Watch the numbers. 

If you've got a bike computer and you've been gathering and using all that data in your training, make sure you use it to your advantage on race day:  ride smart and efficient for your best results.

10.   Consider the cassette block on your bike.
  
Is it the best option for your race conditions?   You might want a different gear range on your cassette for a flatter race like Ironman Florida, Ironman Arizona or Stony Plain Alberta's Great White North than you might want for a hillier race like the Ironman Canada, Ironman Lake Placid, Ironman France or Edmonton's WTS race in Hawrelak Park..